GrassCycling

Mowing: Mulch mowing is best done on a frequent basis and when the lawn is not too wet. Cut no more than 1/3 of the grass blade and no more than 1" at a time. Keep mower blades sharp to keep grass healthy and prevent browning and raggedness. Mow in a different direction every time. Mow it high - grass is healthiest at 2”-3”.

Another way to save: shrink your lawn. In areas where your lawn does not grow well, consider replacing grass with trees, flower beds and vegetable gardens.

Watering: Water early in the morning to reduce evaporation. Water deeply and less frequently - about an inch per week. Add mulch to use less water and fertilizer.

Fertilizing: Choose only organic fertilizers and avoid over fertilizing. Over fertilizing makes grass demand more water and it grows faster, which creates more work for you. A simple recipe for northwest lawns - aerate, add compost and dust with lime.

Mulching mowers are designed to cut grass differently than a bagger or side discharge type. They have special blades and deck designs that finely chop the grass clippings before falling back into the lawn.  

There are mulching blades that can be added to a regular mower; however, they are not as effective at mulching the grass into fine pieces. Electric mulching mowers can also help reduce air pollution. Push reel mowers use no gas or electricity and work well, too!

No. Thatch is made up of roots and stems and is caused by unhealthy lawn practices, not mulch mowing.

No. There are many causes of lawn disease; mulch mowing is not one of them. Improper watering and fertilizing are the primary causes of turfgrass disease.

No. Grass will not clump as long as you don't mow when it's too high or too wet. When you use a mulching mower and clip grass short (1/3 blade, less than 1"), they decompose quickly.